Cuba has been on my bucket list for a while and I was super excited when my sister and I finally decided to spend our 2023 vacation there. I started browsing all kinds of articles, websites, and travel blogs to find information that could help organize our holiday. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as easy as planning our previous trip to Mexico; most of the blogs I found were outdated and the views on Cuba were quite divisive. After a thorough planning, we finally managed to put together an itinerary (breaking it down into days), we just had to figure out how to get from point A to point B, but we agreed we would improvise.
I had read a lot about Cuba but wasn’t sure what to expect. I had come across information about poverty, the widespread struggles of the population, the inadequate infrastructure, and the complexity of even the most basic tasks.
In 1962, as a reaction to specific actions taken by the Cuban Government, the United States imposed a trade embargo on the two nations. This embargo has remained in effect ever since, causing a significant impact on the everyday lives of Cubans, particularly in terms of food, clean water, medicine, and other essential economic needs.
So why is it commonly recommended to visit this country at least once in a lifetime? The beauty of Cuba extends beyond its high mountains, lush green jungles, and gorgeous white sand beaches. The warmth and kindness of the locals, their hospitality, passion for music, and relaxed way of life fascinated me.
Originally, our trip was intended just for me and my sister, but we then decided to bring along our mom and a friend, resulting in the four of us embarking on this delightful journey.
Our itinerary:
Day 0. Budapest – Madrid
Our flight took off from Budapest on July 18. With a super short 45-minute layover in Munich, we just made it to the gate a few minutes before boarding. We were worried about our luggage, but thankfully, all went well. We arrived in Madrid at 10 p.m., took a taxi for 25 euros, and were at the hotel in no time (actually in half an hour). We had booked two double rooms in a B&B near the airport, which was perfect for the night.
Day 0.1 Madrid - Havana
Since we had an afternoon flight to Havana, we had a few hours to see a little bit of Madrid. We were very excited, but it was not what we had expected. We started the day with breakfast at a local restaurant where we enjoyed a delicious octopus sandwich. Then we walked around Plaza Mayor, saw the Royal Palace, and tried some tapas at the market. That was all we could squeeze into half a day. We were not impressed. We love wandering the historic parts of a town, admiring the architecture, and learning about history. We did not find that here. Perhaps it would have been a different experience if we had more time.
So we called an Uber to get back to the hotel on time, packed up the rest of our stuff, had a delicious coffee from the lobby's vending machine, and went to look for a taxi. We convinced a driver who was just stopping for lunch in front of our hotel to take us to the airport. We got there in half an hour, and it took us another fifteen minutes to find our terminal which I can describe with only one word: chaotic. It was super crowded and there was luggage scattered everywhere. Fortunately, our line was moving pretty fast and we got to the check-in desk in no time. At the desk, we requested the lady for a minimum of two adjacent seats due to language communication needs (as only me and my sister speak English). She was happy to help us and we got our requested seats. After checking in, we passed through security and made our way to the gate. We stopped by the duty-free store, sampled some vodka, then boarding started as soon as we reached the gate.
Our previous experience with the Spanish airline Iberia was quite disappointing, and because of that, we did not have high expectations for World2Fly. However, the cabin crew was friendly, professional, and most importantly, spoke English. The food was average, nothing special, but we didn’t expect anything fancy anyway. The only bummer was that there was an additional charge for alcoholic beverages, but we survived. The 8.5-hour flight was smooth, yet very long. We watched a few movies, slept as much as we could, and finally, after breakfast, we began our descent. We landed at 6 p.m. local time. We were so excited, and couldn’t wait to get out of the airport. But it didn’t go as fast as we anticipated it. First, we had to make a line and give the authorities our local address. Then, we passed through immigration, and all that remained was to pick up our luggage. However, this process seemed to take an eternity due to the large number of people and the tons of suitcases, bags, and boxes. It was astonishing to see that most individuals were retrieving multiple pieces of luggage, some as many as five, six, or even seven items. Everything was simply disorganized. I’ve never seen anything like this before. After 45 minutes we still didn’t see any of our bags. Our concern grew as we waited, then we noticed that the suitcases were arriving from three separate belts likely due to the high volume of bags. Eventually, we collected them all one by one, and an hour and a half later we grabbed our belongings and went outside to find a taxi.
The first thing that caught our attention was a large parking area where old Soviet vehicles and vintage cars were lining up. Our excitement soared immediately. My sister and I hurried across the street to purchase a SIM card, only to find the shop closed, so we decided to deal with it in the morning. Our priority was to get to our Airbnb so we fought our way through the crowd to look for a taxi. The prices for the official government-operated taxis ranged between 30 and 40 dollars depending on the size of the car. Thinking it was a bit too pricey, we continued walking until we came across some local drivers and we were able to secure a ride for 20 dollars.
A 30-minute drive later we arrived at the apartment. The old crumbling buildings, the piles of garbage on the streets, and the whole neighborhood didn’t look promising. But our lovely host reassured us that the area was one of the safest in Havana. She showed us around and offered to exchange money and help us with the SIM card. It was pretty late already so we decided to get some rest and called it a night.
Day 1 - Havana
Due to the time change, we didn’t get much sleep and woke up super early so we went for a walk around the neighborhood and watched the sunrise. We were staying near the Museo de la Revolución (Revolution Museum), a few minutes away from the famous avenue, Malecón. The city had just started waking up; individuals were heading to work, cars and buses filled the bustling streets and the sun was rising behind the castle overlooking the Havana harbor. The weather was perfect. Still cool and breezy, with no humidity at this hour of the day. We enjoyed this walk a lot. We agreed that instead of wasting our time searching for a SIM card, we would ask our host for her help. While we were waiting for her, we took another stroll and found a local cafeteria nearby. Since they didn’t have any cheese and the selection was equal to zero, we were happy to get a few ham sandwiches.
We also bought some mangoes and avocados for a great price. The most delicious ones we have ever had.
Once our host arrived, we started to look for SIM cards. It was important and we were determined to find at least one because we got the information that most of the Airbnbs and Casa particulars do not have WiFi. We had it easy in Mexico, as you can get these cards and chips at any convenience store. Well, this is very different in Cuba. To begin with, the first two service provider companies we checked, did not even sell cards sold for tourists (and it puzzled us). Finally, we managed to get them at the third place. It took at least an hour or so and good thing we had our passports with us as well as a credit card (since we had to register and do the transaction online). We were glad and relieved.
With no specific plans, we spent the rest of the day strolling through Old Havana, home to the iconic El Capitolio (inspired by Washington D.C.’s Capitol building) and the Gran Teatro de la Habana (Theater and home of the Cuban Ballet). When we were done with the mandatory selfies in front of these magnificent buildings, we grabbed some street food and continued wandering the streets.
Sandwiches and pizzas are considered fast food in Cuba and are typically sold through small windows or "holes" transformed into cafeterias. It's always a great option if we don’t want to spend hours at a restaurant. Around 4 p.m., a taxi driver approached us and talked us into a classic car tour of the city. It was an excellent way to spend the afternoon, especially because we had it in our plans. It was a one-hour tour and cost 40 dollars, but we ended up getting it for 25.
During the drive, we explored the main historical sites on the outskirts of the city. We made a stop at one of the most renowned squares, Plaza de la Revolución, and also drove through Malecón, Havana's primary avenue, which runs alongside the sea. Personally, my favorite spot, aside from Malecón, was Revolution Square, where the iconic faces of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos (two significant figures of the Cuban revolution) are displayed on the two buildings overlooking the square.
By the end of the tour, we became really hungry so we started to look for a restaurant. It wasn’t easy and it took a while but we ended up at an incredibly cozy place, specifically Café del Ángel – Jacqueline Fumero. Seated on the terrace, we were pleasantly surprised when a trio began to perform. Although the drinks and food took some time to arrive, we were enjoying the live music. Everything was worth the wait. The cocktails were delicious (we ordered Piña Coladas and Daiquiris) and the food was phenomenal. Both the prawns and the Ropa Vieja (a local dish that was introduced to Cuba by the Spanish settlers, consisting of shredded meat, vegetables, rice, and beans) were by far the best we had on this trip. Despite the terrace being relatively empty, we didn’t mind as the musicians created a real Cuban atmosphere. We loved every minute of it. Another plus was that we could pay with Canadian dollars, so we could use up some of it as we carried a lot with us. We agreed we would return here during our final days in Cuba.
Day 2 - Havana - Viñales
After spending a fantastic day in Havana, we headed west to explore the stunning mountains of Viñales. Our host in Viñales arranged a taxi for us for a relatively cheap 80 dollars. The town is located in the western province of Pinar del Río, about a two-hour drive from the capital. We expected the driver to pick us up at 11 a.m. so we had time to exchange money as we were not sure if we could do that in Viñales. We also grabbed breakfast at the same local cafeteria. The server lady was very kind, recognizing us from the previous day and happily informed us that they now had cheese available, so we bought ham and cheese pizzas along with a few sandwiches. Instead of 11 a.m., the driver got there for us by noon. We managed to fit all of our bags in the trunk and we were off to Viñales.
The ride went by fast, even though we encountered a lot of obstacles on the road such as horses, cows, different styles of horse carriages, and all kinds of vehicles. Approaching Viñales, the sight of this small town emerging from the valley was a neat view. At this point, we slowed down as we navigated the winding roads with their steep hairpin turns, sharp descents, and lots of potholes. However, the drive was still pleasant and increasingly scenic. As soon as we arrived, we felt a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Havana. It was a relief. Finally, we could walk down the streets without being hassled. It was the ideal place to unwind and appreciate nature. Viñales, being a small town, everything is accessible on foot, although, there are various transportation options available like old-timers, scooters, or horse carriages.
Our accommodation in this town was a Casa Particular: three double rooms each with a private bathroom. The kitchen and living room were shared with our hosts which is a common setup in Cuba.
Despite the language barrier (the owners spoke no English and we had limited Spanish skills), we somehow managed to communicate effectively. They offered breakfast for 5 dollars a person, but we passed on it, opting to explore better options in town. Besides, we still had plenty of snacks and avocados left over that we didn’t want to waste. Later that evening, we bought some delicious homemade rolls from the neighborhood and there we had our breakfast.
Once we unpacked, we walked to town to grab something to eat. We checked quite a few places, compared prices, and ultimately settled on having lobster which was simply delicious. After dinner, we looked at some excursions to the valley offered by different tour operators. We had a variety of activities to choose from, including horseback riding, cycling, hiking, and a combined tour; we all agreed that exploring the valley on horseback sounded like the most fun option. We reserved our spots for 15 dollars each and were told to be at their office by 8 a.m. the following morning. After returning to the apartment, we prepared for the next day and retired to bed for a good night's sleep.
Day 3 - Viñales
Following a quick breakfast, we headed to town to meet our guide who was very punctual and we took off at 8 a.m. In just a few minutes, we found ourselves on a small field outside Viñales, ready to embark on our horseback riding adventure.
The initial process was quite hilarious as none of us had any horse-riding experience. However, our guide, a true professional, made sure that everything went smoothly and reassured us that there was nothing to be afraid of. The horses were gentle, easy to handle, and familiar with the route. The scenery throughout the journey was spectacular, with mountains surrounding the valley, plantations bordering the trail, and lush tropical vegetation and palm trees all around. We even crossed a small creek, which seemed scary at first, but our horses overcame the challenge. It was entertaining to see their friendly competition to lead the group, each striving to be at the front of the line.
Our first stop was at a tobacco farm. It was a great relief to finally pause, given the discomfort of the saddle and our exhaustion after the nearly two-hour ride. Besides, the heat and humidity were brutal. The moment we entered the house and sat down, we were drenched in sweat. We were glad we could sit back and relax in the rocking chairs. Sadly, we did not see tobacco plantations, as the season starts at the end of the year (that’s when the tobacco is planted and grown for three months before getting harvested). The farmer gave us a wealth of information, covering everything from planting the seeds to the cigar-making process. To our surprise, we found smoking cigars quite enjoyable, despite our initial doubts about it. To enhance our experience as beginners, the farmer dipped the end of the cigar in honey and explained that it not only acts as a natural filter but also gives additional flavor and aroma to the cigar. The owner of the farm was offering cigars in packs of 5, 10, and 20 at 4 dollars apiece. We opted to purchase two packs of 10 for a total of 80 dollars. It is important to point out that these locally made cigars do not have any labels on them, as farmers are prohibited from marketing or labeling their products for sale.
Once we were done here, we headed to another farm to learn more about Viñales coffee, tobacco, and rum. The ride took 45 minutes and we were relieved to make another stop as the scorching heat became increasingly unbearable. As soon as we got there, a young man welcomed us and delved into the details of the guava rum unique to Viñales. He offered their signature mojitos prepared with this special rum and sweetened with honey instead of sugar. The mojitos were exquisite. He then elaborated on tobacco and coffee production, as well as explaining the process of harvesting coffee beans. Rum, cigars, honey, and coffee beans were being sold on the farm, and we purchased a sample of each. The presentation was incredibly impressive, we enjoyed it a lot. However, we became very hungry, prompting us to stay for lunch. The menu for the day was goat stew with rice, potatoes, and vegetables, a dish that didn't excite me, but since the majority of our group wanted to stay, I had no other option. The lunch cost 3000 pesos a portion (which I found to be a little bit costly) and came with an overly sweet lemonade, leaving us unable to finish it. To my surprise, the food was tasty but truth be told, I had enough of goat for a lifetime.
After lunch, we returned to town, although this ride was not as pleasant as the one in the morning. Eager to reach home and unwind, we felt completely exhausted. Our original plan for the afternoon was to hop on the sightseeing bus (only 5 dollars for the entire day) and further explore the valley but we had to reschedule this excursion. It was disappointing to miss out on so much, but we were not feeling well at all. That being said, we decided to forgo any activities for the rest of the day, just got some takeaway pizza, and stayed in. As it was our sole full day in Viñales and still wished to visit the places we had missed, we had to look for a ride to Trinidad with a flexible driver who would make stops by those sights. We talked to our hosts, and fortunately, they were able to arrange a taxi for us. The driver accepted our conditions for a fee of 300 dollars, covering the journey from Viñales to Trinidad with a total of 4 stops on the way.
About our accommodation:
It was a cozy little house, but on the very first night, the toilet in my (and my sister’s) bathroom broke, leaving us unable to flush. We notified the host right away, who checked the toilet, confirmed the issue, and assured us that she would arrange for it to be repaired. I trust that the issue has been resolved by now, as we had to use the toilet next door for the remainder of our stay.
Adding to the inconvenience, on our final day, there was a water shortage in the apartment, (except for the hand wash sink). This posed a challenge as we relied on a water purifier tool throughout our trip, and we had to fill our water bottles from the bathroom sink. Glass by glass.
Furthermore, there were connectivity problems with the WiFi. Although the Airbnb listing mentioned WiFi availability, we had to repeatedly request the owner to enable it, which she did briefly. However, it was obvious that she was not happy about it. Later we discovered that she controlled the connection through her phone, resulting in no connection when she was away. This was disappointing.
Additionally, the kitchen lacked some essential items, such as a coffee maker or microwave. Despite requesting a coffee machine from the host, it was never provided.
Day 4 - Viñales - Trinidad
We got up early in the morning and took off at 8 a.m. We felt relieved to be leaving the accommodation. Our first stop for the day was the Mural de la Prehistoria. There was a spectacular view all along the way with magnificent limestone rock formations and tall cliffs covered with lush green flora. This enormous mural, created by Leovigildo González Morillo in 1961 with the assistance of 18 individuals over 4 years, represents the evolution of life on Earth. Upon our arrival, the park had just opened. To make the most of our time, we quickly snapped a few photos and continued on our way to the Indian Cave.
It was a brief 10-minute drive away, and we had to wait for it to open as well. The cave was named after the Indian remains found inside, indicating its past use once as a shelter by indigenous inhabitants of the region. It stretches 4 kilometers in total, but only a quarter of it requires walking. Beyond this point, a motorboat is used to navigate further along the San Vicente River that flows through the cave. As we ventured deeper inside, the space became more confined, leading my sister to experience a panic attack and turn back. Despite encountering some narrow passages, the three of us enjoyed exploring the cave on foot and the boat ride was also fun. The entire tour lasted approximately 20-25 minutes with tickets priced at 150 pesos a person.
Following our visit to the cave, we drove to the Los Jasmines viewpoint, where we witnessed some breathtaking views of the entire valley. After capturing the obligatory photos, we enjoyed a delightful cup of coffee and then headed to Soroa village. We got there in an hour, purchased the tickets, and started the climb to the waterfall. The 279 steps proved to be more challenging than anticipated due to the heat, let alone the constant flow of people on the narrow stairs. Once we made our way through the thick forest without a hint of breeze, we were rewarded with the stunning sight of a 22-meter-high waterfall hidden deep inside the dense tropical jungle. The whole area around the waterfall was super crowded and busy with people swimming, jumping off the cliff, and listening to loud music while having a picnic. The heat and the noise made it difficult to stay for long, prompting us to move on to the Orchid Garden which was just across the forest. It was interesting to see the contrast in the entrance fees as tourists were required to pay 400 pesos, while locals were charged only 50. Nevertheless, the garden was truly remarkable, displaying a diverse range of orchid species, tropical plants, and palm trees.
Our driver was incredibly patient with us the whole time, but he was probably relieved when we were done at the last stop and could finally continue our journey to Havana. He told us that we would be changing cars in Havana and a new driver would drive us to Trinidad. We got to Havana around 1 p.m., and took off as soon as the new chauffeur arrived, knowing we had 300 kilometers ahead of us. The new guy did not speak English at all, so the communication was very limited on this trip. While we made a quick stop at a roadside diner, we bought some water and a few sandwiches for lunch and then were on the road again. The highway leading to Trinidad was in fairly good condition, but we did come across several distractions, such as various slow-moving vehicles and animals wandering freely. The scenery was not as picturesque as around Viñales, but when exiting the freeway, palm trees, and banana plantations started to appear again. All of a sudden, we found ourselves on a road with steep inclines and sharp bends.
Despite sending numerous messages to our host in Trinidad while we were on the way there, we received no response. It raised suspicion that she had not reached out to us since the morning, and with no address or phone number in hand, our concerns grew. We arrived in Trinidad at 6 p.m. and tried to find our apartment by using the location given by Airbnb. After driving around for 20 minutes, the driver offered to show us an apartment, but it seemed a little sketchy so we turned it down. We didn’t want to further waste his time so we asked him to drop us at the main square where we thought we would figure out something. Since we still could not get hold of our host, we decided to inform Airbnb about the situation and to search for another place to stay. It soon became apparent that both Booking and Airbnb were inaccessible in Cuba, making it nearly impossible to find a place through those platforms. (Luckily, the website somehow let us contact them so we messaged customer service and explained our situation).
Exhausted and hungry, we found ourselves in the main square, sitting on a bench surrounded by luggage after a long day of driving. Despite feeling scammed, we knew we had to act quickly. My sister spotted a hotel across the square, so she walked over with Magdi to check their prices but as soon as they realized how luxurious this hotel was, they turned around. Meanwhile, the doorman of this hotel stopped them and they started talking. They told the man about our situation and luckily, he knew someone who could help us. Following a few phone calls, another gentleman showed up who offered us two rooms in an apartment complex for 40 dollars a room per night. After checking out the rooms, we were left with no other option but to take them, since it was getting late and we still had not heard a word either from Airbnb or from our host. We pulled ourselves together and made our way to the building which was only a 15-minute walk but felt like an eternity.
The apartment was pretty nice. Each room had its separate bathroom, and the common spaces, such as the kitchen and the living room, were shared. The rooms were not yet ready, so we had to wait in the lobby. The moment we put our bags down, Yolanda, our host, suddenly called us. Although she didn't speak English, and it was challenging to understand her Spanish, I managed to give her our location before the line got cut off. We tried to reach her over and over again afterwards but she no longer answered the phone. We finally received the address of the Airbnb, so my sister and I decided to go over and talk to her since the apartment was nearby. However, she was nowhere to be found. I walked back to our new place because we had the feeling she was on her way to us. My sister stayed outside of Yolanda's place in case she showed up there. We were right. Once I got back I saw her there trying to communicate with my Mom and Magdi. She asked us what we wanted to do and after a quick discussion, we decided to stick with our original booking since we already had paid for it. Moreover, we did not want any more complications. I'm not sure if it was luck or just good timing, but we did not give any money for the new rooms beforehand, therefore we did not have any obligations to stay. Nevertheless, we thought there was enough drama for the day, so we asked Yolanda to arrange a taxi for us because there was no way we would take another step with those bags. She didn't argue. We were so relieved we could finally occupy our accommodation, unpack, and relax after this crazy day. Yolanda seemed regretful about the situation, and while we explained our efforts to reach out to her, we chose not to dwell on the issue any further. We were simply thankful to have a place to stay. A three-bedroom, two-story apartment with a large living room, kitchen, and a panoramic terrace was going to be our home for the next 3 days.
In the defense of Yolanda, she had little to no experience operating her Airbnb account, which led to her not knowing the necessary steps to take such as sending us the address and her contact details before our arrival.
After a thorough discussion of the day, we gladly hit the pillow and fell asleep. Completely unaware that the best was yet to come. At 1 a.m. we woke up to find all the air conditioners and fans off as the building had lost power. We tried to turn it back on without any luck, so we decided to go back to sleep when around 3 a.m. the power was miraculously restored. What a day.
Day 5 - Trinidad
I think that Trinidad is a must-visit destination while in Cuba. I was super excited to explore this city and had very high expectations for it. And doubtlessly, I wasn't disappointed. In fact, I was impressed by this charming little city, with its relaxed pace where residents greet you warmly, and music fills the streets. And I am confident that I can speak for every one of us.
Situated on the southern coast of Cuba, in the province of Sancti Spíritus, Trinidad stands out as one of the most authentic colonial cities, the third to be founded by the Spanish conquistador Diego Velazquez in 1514, and it has preserved its Spanish architectural heritage with its narrow cobblestone streets, vibrant colonial buildings, and unique churches. This town, with a 500-year-old history, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988.
After gathering a wealth of information and ideas from different travel blogs, we decided to dedicate three full days to Trinidad. Our itinerary included a beach day and a visit to Topes de Collantes National Park. We chose to spend our first day in town, immersing ourselves in the sights and sounds of Trinidad. The place we stayed at was conveniently located near the historic center, within easy reach of all major attractions. Our first stop was Plaza Mayor, the central square adorned with palm trees and surrounded by 18th and 19th-century buildings. The square was constructed during the city's golden era, marked by the thriving economy driven by the prosperity of the sugar cane plantations.
Trinidad is also known as the City of Museums due to its numerous museums, including the Romantic Museum, the Archeological Museum, and the Museum of Colonial Architecture, among others. Sadly, as we are not particularly fond of museums, we didn't feel like visiting any of them. Yet, I believe it would have been beneficial to visit a few of them to gain more insight into the town's history.
Around noon, we stopped for a coffee and then continued our stroll through the lively, bustling streets of Trinidad. It was a good opportunity to get a glimpse into the everyday life of the town's residents as they were doing business with each other, selling goods by the roadside, or lining up at the local bakery.
As our hunger grew, we started to look for a place to eat and eventually ended up in a casa particular where a room was transformed into a cozy diner. The authenticity of the place was evident as an elderly lady managed the kitchen, while her granddaughter took care of the service. The menu was simple, offering dishes like lobster, fried fish, roasted pork, chicken, and ropa vieja. Two of us chose the fried fish while the others decided on the ropa vieja. Even though we had already finished our drinks before the meal arrived, it was worth the wait. Everything was super tasty and the service was outstanding.
Once we finished lunch, we felt like we needed a rest so we walked back to our apartment. As soon as we got out of the house, rain began to pour down. The streets quickly cleared out, leaving only a handful of children playing outside. Back at our accommodation, we changed and prepared for the evening while waiting for the rain to stop.
We headed out again around 8 p.m. As the sun set, the town took on a completely different atmosphere with dim, flickering lights illuminating the streets. Live music filled the air from the restaurants as their employees were trying to attract as many customers as they could. It wasn't an easy choice, but we agreed on a place called Tropical Club, where a band was playing on the terrace.
We weren't very hungry, so we only ordered some snacks such as tacos, croquettes, and fried plantain. Of course, we couldn't miss out on the chance to sample Trinidad's famous cocktail, La Canchanchara, which, as the legend goes, was created by Cuban guerilla fighters during the war of independence against the Spanish. Originally meant as a healing drink, this blend of Aguardiente, lime, and honey was traditionally consumed warm. Nowadays, the cocktail is typically made with white rum instead and served in a clay mug (although we got it in a regular cup). We ordered two rounds of Canchanchara, personally finding it quite enjoyable. While relaxing on the terrace and listening to the live band, we started to feel irritated by their constant requests for tips after each song. So we asked for the bill and headed over to Casa de la Música. We promptly found our way to the front row, selected seats that offered a clear view of the stage, and we all agreed to order some mojitos to start with. The band was incredible, we loved every minute of the concert, and it was fun to watch people dancing salsa. After a few more mojitos we called it a night and went home. As we were preparing to go to bed, we discovered a water outage in the entire apartment. It was already late, well past midnight, and we didn't want to disturb anyone, however, we did message Yolanda's daughter, Yeni, using the phone number we got from her mom on the first day. We then went to sleep as there was nothing more we could do.
Seeing the costs of private transportation, we began considering the idea of renting a car for the rest of our trip. We asked various travel agencies in Trinidad and they all suggested the Cubatur company. Having found their office closed every time we visited during the day and unable to get the information we needed from their website, we figured to look for a rental online.
Day 6 - Trinidad - Playa Ancon
We had an early day, as Yeni arrived at 8 a.m. to check the water situation, finding the water tank on the terrace empty. After turning the pump on, it took about thirty minutes for the water to slowly flow back into the pipes. Once this issue was resolved, we packed our bags and took off to town for the beach day we had planned.
As per our routine, we each picked up a pizza for breakfast before looking for a taxi. While doing so, we decided to quickly stop by the Cubatur office again and were pleasantly surprised to find it open this time. However, we were informed that car rentals were only available online but we knew we would not get far with their websites. Returning to the main square, we hailed a taxi to the beach, which cost us 20 dollars for a round trip. After a thirty-minute ride, the driver dropped us off, promising to return in the afternoon. Despite selecting this beach based on positive reviews, we must admit that we were not particularly impressed.
Despite its white sand and warm water, I don't agree with the idea that it's one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, as many bloggers claim. The weather was nice, not too hot, with a light cloud cover that kept us from getting sunburned. It was a good day overall, but I believe we could have spent our time more effectively. People strolled along the beach offering boat trips and snorkeling excursions, but we were not in the mood for any of those activities. There was a nearby restaurant, but we weren't particularly hungry and still had plenty of snacks, so we opted for a couple of pizzas from a local vendor who passed by every half an hour. We started to feel bored and tired of doing absolutely nothing, so we were ready to leave. We were glad to spot our driver, which made us quickly pack our things and we finally took off around 4 p.m.
While at the beach, my sister and I registered with an online car rental service, trying to secure a car for the rest of our trip. However, we kept running into difficulties as the dates we asked for were not working for them, and we couldn't drop off the car at our intended destination. Furthermore, they wanted to charge us a thousand dollars for 4 days. At that moment, we sensed that something beyond us preventing this from happening, so we had to let it go.
As we were leaving the beach, a massive thunderstorm with dark clouds and lightning was rapidly approaching. It did not take long to find ourselves right in the middle of it, with water cascading down the streets. When reaching the apartment we got soaking wet in seconds, prompting us to dry off and to change. By the time we got ready to go into town, the rain stopped and once again we found ourselves on the rooftop of a delightful restaurant where live music was about to start.
We first ordered a round of rum and some cocktails, then checked out the menu. While three of us chose a delicious fish fillet, the lamb my mom picked wasn't fresh at all and didn't taste right. Seeking a local dessert, we followed the waiter's recommendation with the Tres leches which translates to three milk cakes in English. Resembling Tiramisu in both appearance and taste (please pardon the comparison), we thoroughly enjoyed it. Since we did have a fantastic time at Casa de la Música the night before, we had no doubts we would stop by again after dinner - it didn't disappoint.
Several people tried to sell us various tours and excursions but the only one we were interested in was the Topes de Collantes National Park. Unfortunately, due to heavy rainfall over the past few days, they informed us that it was not completely safe to go. Therefore, we all agreed to stay in Trinidad and do something more relaxing instead. Observing quite a few dance schools in town, we got tempted to give a salsa class a try. After all, we're in Cuba. We talked to one of the teachers, booked a class, and were looking forward to the next afternoon.
Day 7 - Trinidad
First thing in the morning, we headed to our favorite pizza place. When we finished breakfast, we walked along the streets trying to exchange money and get rid of some Canadian dollars. However, it was impossible to find a good deal so we returned to the cafe we had visited on our first day in Trinidad. They not only served excellent coffee but also accepted Canadian dollars and gave back Cuban pesos as a change. Remembering how much we liked Tres leches the other day, we got one each as well as some espressos and frappuccinos. After exchanging some pesos, we continued to explore the streets of Trinidad.
It didn't take long before we spotted the San Francisco Church which we were excited to visit. Before climbing the bell tower, we paid the 50-pesos entrance fee and checked out the exhibition on the ground floor, namely the Museum of the Fight Against Bandits, where photos, maps, weapons, and other objects illustrate the struggles against criminals.
A spiral staircase led to the top where a stunning view of the town unfolded in front of us.
We admired the sights of Trinidad and its surroundings for a while, then walked down and found a local vendor selling straw hats. I managed to get one for a very reasonable price. We just took a few more steps, and another gentleman talked us into buying some cute handmade wicker baskets that we bought for my mom. We almost went on sightseeing with a horse carriage but we were too exhausted, plus the heat was intense so we thought it would be wiser to go home and get ready for our salsa class.
While heading home, we encountered an elderly woman selling different kinds of handcrafted jewelry. We purchased some very authentic necklaces made of natural materials such as seeds, beans, and various tree crops. This lovely lady told us that she prepares these beautiful items to make a living. Feeling sympathetic towards her situation, we bought a bunch more of her products without even considering negotiating the price.
Once we got our rest, we were ready for the long-awaited salsa class.
Despite my mom not feeling well and decided to stay, the rest of us had a great time. Our instructors were fantastic, showing a lot of patience towards us. By the end of the 2-hour class, we were able to master six steps. It was the highlight of the day, we enjoyed every minute of it.
As it was our last day in Trinidad, after finishing the class, we headed to the market for some souvenirs. Once we were done buying a ton of stuff we didn't need, we became very hungry. Too exhausted to look for a restaurant, we agreed to walk back to the same place where we had eaten the other day.
It took about an hour for the food to be ready but it was worth it. This time we opted for fish and lobster and it was the best fried fish I’ve ever tasted. The lady apologized multiple times for the long wait but we didn’t mind it because everything was delightful.
At 6 p.m., we were still without transportation to Santiago de Cuba for the next morning, but Yeni was working on arranging one for us. We asked around in town throughout the day, but the only option we got was the taxi and bus combo which was not appealing to us at all. Also, to find a better option, we asked for assistance from our host in Santiago.
Embracing the Cuban mindset of not worrying, just allowing things to run their course, we patiently waited for a ride to turn up out of the blue. So we mixed a good old cuba libre and headed up to the rooftop to enjoy the sunset, hoping for a miracle. Shortly after we had our first sip, we got a message from Noemi, the host in Santiago, offering a ride for $350, a great deal compared to the ones we got on the streets. In the meantime, Yeni also found us a taxi for $400 which we politely refused. After receiving the driver's contact information from Noemi, we confirmed the pickup for 8 a.m. However, there was a significant misunderstanding as the driver was concerned about the other arrangement Yeni had made (we had no idea how he came to know about that), leading to a lengthy explanation to reassure him that everything was proceeding as planned.
Day 8 - Trinidad - Santiago de Cuba
Our taxi arrived at our place exactly at 8 a.m. Needless to say, we had plenty of bags and luggage, but after several attempts, we managed to squeeze everything into the trunk. This car was much more modern than what we were used to. The air conditioning was working well and the seats were comfy for the first few hours.
Despite the poor condition of the road, our driver skillfully maneuvered through the numerous obstructions during our journey. We didn't make any stops for meals, but fortunately, we had enough snacks to satisfy our hunger. Four hours later, we arrived in Camagüey, where the drivers changed quickly at a gas station. We were desperate to use the bathroom but the outside looked so awful that we couldn't imagine what the inside would be like, so we gave up on the idea. Instead, we decided to wait to leave the city and asked the driver to stop by a bushy area which we felt much more comfortable and hygienic to use as a restroom. We encountered more and more potholes on the road which became increasingly irritating, not to mention the constant bouncing of the car. Furthermore, our new driver was not particularly skilled either.
The last few hours of the journey were quite miserable, we were tired and anxious to get to our new home, and we felt a sense of relief upon arriving in the city. As soon as we reached the accommodation, we were greeted by our host Noemi, and her son, Andy. They were kind and friendly, Andy even assisted us in carrying our bags up the stairs. Once we checked the rooms, we unpacked our bags and made ourselves at home. The apartment was a casa particular, located on the first floor of Noemi's house. It had a separate entryway, a kitchen, three bedrooms with private bathrooms, and a spacious rooftop terrace with a great view of the city.
Noemi gave us a ton of information regarding Santiago including directions to downtown, recommendations for sightseeing, dining options, and more. After we got settled, we quickly made our way into the city since we were starving. It was July 26th, a huge celebration, with the carnival festivities continuing in the streets of Santiago.
Each year in July, Santiago de Cuba hosts a carnival that aligns with the national holiday of 26 July, the anniversary of the attack on the Moncada barracks, a significant event marking the beginning of the Cuban Revolution. This vibrant event is the largest and most popular festival in the country, turning Santiago into a lively celebration.
As we were in search of a restaurant, we unexpectedly stumbled upon a local neighborhood where we immediately became the center of attention. We attracted more and more curious looks as we strolled by, with quite a few greetings and invitations. This was an entirely new and somewhat uncomfortable experience for us. Despite feeling a little anxious, we managed to find our way out of the area and eventually arrived at the harbor, the main location of the carnival. We didn't see exotic dancers but there was music, food, and plenty of drinks, resembling more of a fair than a traditional carnival.
Since we didn't find a decent restaurant nearby, we lined up for a roasted pork sandwich to satisfy our hunger. We waited quite a while before we got our sandwiches and were finally able to have a meal. It was getting late and we ventured out pretty far from our apartment so we hailed a horse carriage to take us back to our place. It was a unique experience and we had a lot of fun, but were glad to be home.
Day 9 - Santiago de Cuba
Santiago de Cuba, situated 870 kilometers from Havana in the southeast of the island, was founded by the Spanish in 1515 and served as the capital of Cuba from 1522 to 1589. Santiago's rich history includes Spanish conquistadors, French bandits, revolutionary heroes, and notable Cuban poets and writers. Known as the ”cradle of the revolution”, the city witnessed the start of the revolution when a small group led by Fidel Castro attacked the Moncada barracks on 26 July 1953. Although this attack failed, Castro's insurgent movement later overthrew the dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista and victory was eventually declared on 1 January 1959, marking the success of the Cuban Revolution.
We woke up early in the morning, excited to start our walking tour around the city. After grabbing some pastries from the bakery across the street, we quickly set off. Our first stop was the main square, Parque Cespedes, which is surrounded by numerous architectural landmarks. One of these landmarks is the Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption, a national monument that is impressive both inside and out.
At the center, facing the church stands a statue of Cuban revolutionary hero Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, but the home of former Spanish colonist Diego Velazquez is also found nearby. Dating back to 1515, it is said to be the oldest house in the country, now operating as the Museum of Cuban Historical Environment displaying furniture from the 16th to 19th centuries. The city hall, known as Ayuntamiento in Spanish, also founded by Diego Velazquez, is located here, too. The original building was destroyed in an earthquake and completely rebuilt in 1830. In 1959, following the revolution's victory, Fidel Castro made his very first speech in Cuba from its balcony. Lastly, we admired the colonial-style Casa Grande Hotel, a place that would have been worth exploring.
The next stop of our itinerary was the Santa Ifigenia cemetery. Since we were quite far from the cemetery and we found horse carriages a fun way of getting around, we hailed one to get us there. As soon as we arrived, we bought the tickets and looked forward to entering with excitement. Apart from the 125 peso entrance fee, they charged us an additional 75 for photography.
Being one of the most visited historical sites in Santiago de Cuba, Santa Ifigenia cemetery opened in 1868 to replace the smaller cemetery of Santa Ana, and was declared a national monument in 1979. It ranks as the second largest cemetery in Cuba, following Havana's Cementerio Colon.
Alongside the residents of Santiago, this cemetery is the final resting place of important Cuban figures like Jose Martí, Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, and Fidel Castro, as well as other notables such as Emilio Bacardí from the famous rum family and Compay Segundo, the celebrated singer from the Buena Vista Social Club. The fallen heroes of the Moncada attack and the War of Independence also rest here.
We watched the ceremonial changing of the guards, which takes place every thirty minutes, and it was truly an incredible experience. We were impressed by the exceptional discipline and precision displayed by these young individuals. After the ceremony, we wandered back inside to admire the beautiful marble tombstones when suddenly spotted the guards taking their breaks. They causally greeted us and invited us over to take photos. They were adorable.
The heat was getting intense so we wanted to get home as fast as we could. Since our place was over an hour away, we tried to secure a ride, unsuccessfully. The vehicles were either taken or the drivers tried to overcharge us so we decided to continue on foot. Despite the scorching sun and high humidity that left us exhausted, we had no choice but to keep walking. Along the way, we made several more attempts to flag down a mototaxi or a bicitaxi, but encountered the same issue. We arrived at a local market, tired and frustrated, little did we know that an even greater frustration was about to unfold.
To begin with, we were the only tourists, and as women, we repeatedly received a bunch of comments and compliments which quickly became irritating and uncomfortable. Eager to escape the situation, we hurried through the market, feeling relieved when we finally made it to our apartment. We were drained and desperately in need of a break.
A couple of hours later we were ready for lunch so we took off to search for a restaurant. Not long after, we found ourselves at a place named San Francisco, only a 15-minute walk away from our accommodation. We began by ordering a round of piña coladas, then for the main course, we got fried chicken and some seafood. Not only it was tasty but also affordable.
Later in the evening, when the temperature dropped, we took a walk again in the city. This time we ended up at Plaza de Marte, and then strolled along a shopping street where most places were closed. Noemi had earlier suggested a local restaurant, but unfortunately, they were not serving any food, and also, their drink options were limited. We had difficulty finding a place to eat for the same reason, and since we weren't very hungry, we chose to go back home. However, on our way, we stumbled upon a charming little restaurant called Isla Bella, where food was indeed being served.
We ordered a ham and cheese pizza, this time a regular size, accompanied by a nice local beer and some wine. Surprisingly, the pizza turned out to be delicious. Feeling that we had experienced enough adventures for the day, we headed back home and went to bed.
Day 10 - Santiago de Cuba
Noemi had arranged a ride for us for today to visit San Pedro de la Roca, also known as Castillo del Morro, and the rum museum. The driver picked us up at 10 a.m. and before visiting the castle, we first stopped at the museum. It is located on the territory of the rum factory in Santiago and consists of two main rooms that present the history and production of rum. The first room focuses on sugar cane, its arrival in Cuba, and the process of making rum. It features famous master rum makers and their brands of production, together with the tools used in sugar cane processing. In the second room, barrels containing aged rum ranging from 3 to 11 years are stored before being bottled. Following the guided tour, we participated in a tasting session of Santiago rum aged for 7 years, which we enjoyed so much that we purchased three bottles, priced at 8 and 10 dollars. Visitors were required to pay an admission fee which was 120 pesos at the time of our visit. It is something one shouldn't miss.
Our next destination, the fort was a 30-minute drive away. Our driver, who was both informative and enthusiastic, pointed out interesting sights along the ride, making a few stops for photos. He proudly showed us the original engine of his 1950s Chevrolet, a truly magnificent car.
The construction of El Morro began in 1638, following the plans of Italian architect Giovanni Battista Antonelli, and lasted for four decades. It was designed to protect Santiago from Spanish enemies and pirate attacks. Throughout the years, it suffered damage on several occasions, such as during the British occupation or due to earthquakes, leading to additional renovations and expansions. Designated a National Monument in 1979, it has become a significant tourist destination in Santiago de Cuba. The main building houses a museum exhibiting various pirate and historical artifacts like knives, guns, and swords. In the underground passageways, visitors can still see the old cannonballs.
Upon our arrival at El Morro, the driver told us he would wait for us at the entrance while we explored at our own pace. Once we made our way through the local vendors, we purchased the tickets and proceeded to enter the fortress.
We visited the museum, checked out the whole fort area, and admired the great view of the sea from the top. After taking a bunch of photos, we felt like we had enough so we were heading back to the car. On the way there, we made a stop at the only restaurant by the fort but they were not serving food. Despite our disappointment, we ordered a coffee before promptly returning to the taxi as our hunger grew by the minute. The driver then drove us to a cute little house that didn’t seem like a restaurant until we got up on the terrace. We chose seafood with rice and vegetables. Everything was perfect.
As soon as we got back to our apartment, we were ready for a nap. Noemi invited us to join her and Andy for a beer so my sister and I stayed downstairs and enjoyed a couple of drinks with them. During our conversation, she convinced us to go out to dance with her son and their friend. Though initially hesitant, we decided to embrace the opportunity for some fun. Before going out, we had a quick dinner at the same place we ate the other day and also grabbed some pizza to go. Noemi's friend picked us up at 8 p.m. while Andy promised to meet us at the nightclub. After paying the entrance fee, we entered the place, only later to discover that foreigners were charged a higher price. What are we going to do? Since the place was not very crowded, and we felt too shy to dance, we decided to ease the tension by ordering a round of mojitos. With each round we got, our confidence grew. Eventually, Andy showed up, allowing us to dance in pairs. Before we knew it, it was already midnight, so we quickly ordered one last round as it was time for us to leave, considering our excursion scheduled at 10 a.m. We had a fantastic time.
Day 11 - Santiago de Cuba
Noemi, who was truly amazing, also organized this day for us. We wanted to visit the Basilica of El Cobre, and she took care of arranging the transportation for our trip. Needless to say, after last night, both my sister and I struggled to get out of bed but we gathered ourselves and made it downstairs where Noemi prepared us some coffee. While waiting for the taxi, we told her that we didn't have a ride back to Havana yet, and she kindly offered us her assistance. So, just as we learned on this trip, we didn't stress about it, we were sure something would turn up.
Our driver arrived at 10 a.m. and we took off for El Cobre.
Constructed in 1926 in the town of El Cobre, approximately 20 kilometers from Santiago, the basilica stands on a hill near a copper mine, giving it the name El Cobre, which means copper in Spanish. It is the most important pilgrimage site in the country, dedicated to the Virgin of Charity, the patron saint of Cuba. Each year thousands of pilgrims visit here to make offerings, with some being displayed within the church. Notable donations include the Nobel Prize medal donated by Ernest Hemingway and a gift from Fidel Castro's mother asking for protection for her child.
As we were approaching the church, we observed numerous vendors selling sunflowers along the roadside. Later on, we learned that those wishing to honor the Virgin, wear yellow attire and carry sunflowers or flowers of a similar color. We finally understood why the majority of people were dressed in yellow and held sunflowers.
When entering the basilica, we noticed the preparations being made for a mass. As we took our seats, we began to feel the intense heat, and even though the ceremony was about to start, we decided not to stay.
Once we got back, Noemi gave us the good news: she had found a taxi to take us back to Havana for 400 dollars, but we had to leave at midnight. After discussing it, we agreed to the arrangement. We spent the afternoon resting and packing before swinging by our restaurant to pick up some takeaway pizza for the ride. By midnight, we were all set. Noemi's hospitality knew no boundaries as she not only prepared us coffee for the road but also packed us some sandwiches. She even called her son to assist us with the luggage when the car arrived. At first, we were concerned about fitting our bags in the car, but soon realized it was the same type of vehicle that had brought us from Trinidad, and we were able to make everything fit. To our surprise, the driver turned out to be the same young man who drove us from Trinidad to Camagüey. Despite the language barrier, we were very happy to see him again, especially considering his excellent driving skills. The journey through the night was relatively smooth, with fewer vehicles on the road, compared to daytime. Nevertheless, the poor conditions persisted and we came across quite a few broken-down vehicles and witnessed people changing tires along the way. Our driver quickly understood our magic words 'baño natural', whenever we needed a restroom break, making it easier to stop in the dark.
We refueled several times during the 900-kilometer journey, which was always a good opportunity to stretch our legs. As the journey continued, the backseat became increasingly uncomfortable and we were anxious to reach Havana and get a proper rest. To keep our driver awake and entertained, we offered him coffee and tried to engage in conversation, taking into consideration how tired he could be.
Day 12 - Havana
As we were getting close to Havana, the driver asked for directions to our apartment, but from the address, he couldn’t tell which exit to take. So we reached out to our host in Havana who provided detailed instructions. When entering the city, we encountered heavy traffic, causing anxiety as we approached our building. Maneuvering through the narrow one-way streets filled with pedestrians and various vehicles proved to be extremely challenging. I sympathized with our driver after an exhausting 11-hour journey. Nevertheless, we successfully reached our destination. After parking the car, we compensated him with an additional $40 on top of the $400 fare, confident that the extra amount would be appreciated. We expressed our gratitude to him for the safe journey and began to unpack the car.
At 11 a.m., when we arrived, the host and the handyman were already waiting for us. The apartment, located on the 1st floor, presented a challenge with our bags, but thankfully the repairman assisted us in carrying them up the stairs. Once we made it upstairs, our host gave us a tour of the spacious 3-bedroom apartment, featuring a large living room, kitchen, and dining area. We then walked up to the terrace where the handyman showed us the water tanks and informed us about the water shortages in Havana. Little did we know what was waiting for us the following days.
On the terrace, there were two water tanks and we were told that once we were done using water for the day, we needed to switch off the tanks to ensure we were going to have water available in the morning. Following her instructions, we closed the tanks before going to bed.
During the tour of the apartment, we asked our lovely host about transportation to Cienaga de Zapata National Park. After making a few calls, she managed to find us a ride for a cost of 160 dollars. Considering it as a reasonable price for a day trip, we accepted the offer.
After taking a rest, we decided to go out for dinner. Without a specific plan in mind, we simply agreed that if we found a nice place, we would dine there. The accommodation was situated downtown, just a 10-minute walk from the Capitolium. Despite its authenticity, we didn't see many tourists in the neighborhood, making it an unusual experience to walk among locals and to be surrounded by ruined buildings and piles of trash. We wandered around for some time without any success in finding something we liked, so we thought to go back to the restaurant we ate at during our first stay in Havana. So we grabbed a taxi and reached the restaurant in 10 minutes.
We began with a round of piña colada, followed by an equally delicious ropa vieja and a couple of Cuban sandwiches. Satisfied with our meal, we headed back home to get ready for our excursion in the morning. Following the instructions given earlier, we turned off the water tank to ensure a steady water supply the next day.
Day 13 - Havana - Cienaga de Zapata
We got up early, packed our bags, and found our taxi waiting for us at 7.30 a.m. in front of our Airbnb. The journey lasted approximately two hours, and our driver, Eduardo was both friendly and knowledgeable, giving us a ton of information about the park and the country in general.
Covering 1.5 million acres, the immense Zapata Biosphere Reserve contains several protected areas, that serve as a habitat for a variety of endangered birds, reptiles, and native plants. Our first stop was the Crocodile farm, Criadero de Cocodrilos in Spanish, located in the heart of Cienaga de Zapata, by Laguna del Tesoro Lake. This crocodile farm, being the second largest one in the world, raises two species: the Cuban crocodile and its American counterpart.
After purchasing the 600-peso entrance fee to the farm, we entered its beautifully maintained park with a cute little bridge spanning over Laguna del Tesoro. Pausing to admire the gorgeous water lilies on the lake, we then proceeded to see the crocodiles. First, we came across a few smaller ones and had the chance to take photos while holding them, although their mouths were tightly sealed.
Moving on to the big ones, we observed them sunbathing by the lake completely still, with their mouths wide open. When we asked Eduardo about the seemingly motionless crocodiles, he explained with a smile, that they were waiting to be fed. A local vendor was selling jewelry made from crocodile teeth, but we were not interested. Additionally, visitors had the option to feed these creatures for $5, a choice we also passed on. After taking a few photos and videos from various angles, we made our way back.
Eduardo planned for us a boat ride on the swamp, but the wait was taking too long, so we agreed to have breakfast in the meantime. And it wasn't cheap, costing us $30 for 4 pieces of toast, water, and some coffee. Once we were done with our meal, people began boarding the boat. What we were unaware of was that this boat ride was specifically for the guests of a resort located within the national park. As they finished boarding, the boat became full, leaving no space for us. While we were waiting for another boat to be launched, Eduardo told us that it was not going to happen as there was not enough fuel available. Not only did we miss out on the tour, but we also wasted a significant amount of time by waiting. Feeling disappointed, we decided to move on to our next destination, the beach at Punta Perdiz.
The price for an all-inclusive entrance was 2400 pesos per person, which covered a buffet lunch at the restaurant, unlimited drinks at the beach bar, and access to sunbeds. We agreed to have lunch before the buffet closed at 2.30 p.m. The meal selection was not bad, nothing fancy but the food was of good quality. The menu included fish, chicken, and pork with various side options, a wide variety of salads, and fruits. The fish was particularly delicious and after sampling everything, we decided to take a dip in the water.
We were amazed by the breathtaking turquoise water we saw in the distance. Despite the rocky beach and the somewhat challenging access to the water as the rocks were very slippery, the water itself was crystal clear, warm, and full of colorful fish. It was one of the most gorgeous beaches we have seen. We ordered mojitos at the beach bar and returned to the water, enjoying every moment we spent there. After 2.5 hours, we began our journey back to Havana. However, our plans changed when we made a stop at a small hummingbird farm owned by an elderly couple who lovingly bred these exquisite creatures. They are native to Cuba and are the smallest hummingbirds in the world.
The gentleman handed us a small bottle to raise, and these cute little birds immediately started flying around us. Although he made a joke about there being rum inside these bottles, it was more likely honey water. We each took a turn holding the bottle, creating an amazing experience. The couple was selling honey and we couldn't resist purchasing two bottles and also gave them some extra as a tip. This was our final destination for the day, arriving home at 7 p.m.
While we have only seen a tiny part of this stunning nature reserve, we were genuinely amazed by its beauty and diversity. Feeling grateful for Eduardo's exceptional kindness and guidance, we decided to add $40 on top of the $160 fare. During the trip, we asked for his help in finding us a ride to the beach in Varadero the following day. After a couple of phone calls, he said that his friend would drive us for $140, picking us up at 8 a.m.
My sister and I made plans to visit La Bodeguita del Medio, a famous bar known as the birthplace of the mojito. As soon as we got home, we quickly showered and were about to head into town before sundown. While we were in the shower, we heard the bell ringing constantly, which turned out to be our downstairs neighbor informing us that their apartment had flooded while we were showering. Unfortunately, we were unable to contact our host, but we provided them with her phone number so they could continue trying to reach her.
We strolled into town, and it took us half an hour to get to the restaurant. As we were getting close, the sun was setting, casting a beautiful glow over the charming narrow streets. Despite the magical atmosphere, locals persistently approached us at every corner, offering taxi rides, currency exchange, or goods for sale, which was getting annoying. Once we got to the restaurant, we sat down and waited to be served. Truth be told, so far we were not thrilled by this world-famous place where the mojito is said to have originated. To start with, nobody even noticed us sitting down as we had to look for the server who then greeted us with a simple ”Dos mojitos?”. Although we did want mojitos, we were also interested in ordering food and water. While the first server took our drink order, we had to track down another one to place the rest of our order. While waiting for our food, which we didn't have high hopes for, I explored the entire establishment - downstairs, upstairs, and all the rooms. A journalist had started a tradition here and those who visited the place left their mark by signing the wall.
After quickly putting our names on the wall, the food arrived. Surprisingly, both the croquette and the fish were delicious. We asked for some sparkling water to go as it is not commonly available, except in a few restaurants, and then headed out. As we were leaving, a band had just begun playing music. Despite wishing we could stay around for a while, it was getting late and we were exhausted.
We weren't up for a long walk at this time so we hailed a bicitaxi, a three-wheeled bicycle with two attached seats. It was indeed a fun ride, especially with our friendly driver, who even played some reggae music. To simplify the directions, we asked him to take us to the Mimosa restaurant, conveniently located next to our apartment.
Day 14 Havana – Varadero
The taxi driver, Pedro was extremely punctual, arriving in his vintage car before 7.30 a.m. Although we needed a few minutes to prepare ourselves, he waited patiently. As soon as we saw him, we were struck by his elegant appearance and courteous manner. First, we stopped at a viewpoint to admire the magnificent Bacunayagua Bridge, Cuba's highest and longest bridge.
We shot some photos and then headed to the cafeteria for breakfast. We each ordered a ham and cheese sandwich with some mango juice as coffee and water were unavailable. To our disappointment, when we asked for the bill, it was automatically presented in dollars. Eight dollars for four simple sandwiches and two glasses of mango juice? This made us inquire about the price in local currency. The waiter told us we had to pay 1040 Cuban pesos, which was a way better offer. Had we paid in dollars, we would have been overcharged.
It became evident that they only accepted dollars and euros when catering to tourists (at a double exchange rate). To be honest, we didn't see the prices for food and drinks until we were leaving. We then realized that the sign was facing the counter and not the lounge, making it impossible for anybody to see the prices. Following this unpleasant incident, we set off for Varadero, a journey that took us over two hours. To be fair, these old-timers don't exceed speeds of 90-100 kilometers per hour. The trip went by relatively quickly, and Pedro drove us to a resort named Hotel Melia, where he asked a beach attendant to secure us a cabana. As they were all occupied, he kindly offered us individual sunbeds which suited us just fine.
On the way to the beach, Pedro mentioned that he didn't want to take us to a public beach due to the crowds of locals, preferring the quieter and more pleasant atmosphere of a resort. And he was right. The view was breathtaking with the mesmerizing color of the water. It was the second-best beach I had ever seen in my life (Paradise Beach in Tulum still holds the top spot). We agreed on a 3 p.m. pickup with Pedro. We spent all our time in the water, swimming, relaxing, and collecting shells and corals. We had a fantastic time. By 1 p.m. hunger struck, so we made our way to the grill bar and grabbed a couple of hotdogs and burgers. After lunch, exhaustion hit us hard, and we were just lying on the sunbeds, eagerly looking forward to 3 p.m. We packed up, strolled to the parking lot, and couldn't wait to get home. Although Pedro wanted to take us to a cave for a swim on the way back, we were too tired and just wanted to get home and rest. We arrived after 5 p.m. and were ready for a nap.
Later in the evening, all of us except for my sister, headed out for dinner. Despite wandering around for a while, we were struggling to find a suitable place to eat, just like the other day. All of a sudden, we found ourselves in Chinatown, so we agreed to have a good Chinese meal. We had a hard time choosing a restaurant from the wide variety of options, but eventually, we came to a decision. Unexpectedly, it was a place with live music, which we got very excited about. Nevertheless, the contrast of Latin music at a Chinese restaurant in Havana was remarkable. Placing our order was quite a challenge; not only did we have to track down the server, but they didn't even speak English. It wasn't only that we had to chase down the servers, but also had to deal with the fact that they didn't speak any English. We got through in the end, and shortly after, Magdi and I got our beers, while my mom's mojito was still pending. Even though inquiring about it multiple times, all we received was a confirmation that the order had been placed. The delay in preparing the mojito was frustrating, as it took 40 minutes for it to be ready. The wait for our food was even longer, causing growing dissatisfaction. Others who arrived after us were already finishing their meals while we were still waiting. Frustrated, I was about to cancel everything when the appetizers were finally served after an hour of waiting. The portions were so big that we could barely touch the main course so we had it to go, which cost us extra as packing materials in general, as well as napkins or plastic bags, are in short supply. So basically, every time we asked for takeaway, we had to pay for wrapping.
We were not happy with the food or the service, except for the spring rolls because those were delicious, but we enjoyed the entertainment to the fullest. The singers were outstanding. Yet, the highlight of the evening was the Chinese dragon marching in between two Latin songs and putting on a show. We were speechless. Once the dragon was done, we thought we had enough excitement for the day, it was time to go home. We were looking forward to our last full day in Havana.
Day 15 - Havana
We began the day bright and early to fit all the activities we had planned. Unaware of what was waiting for us, we were soon to find out. As we entered the bathroom, we encountered extremely low water pressure, making it difficult to use the shower, the tap, or the toilet. After a quick check of the water tank, we found it to be empty. By 9 a.m., we informed the host about the situation and she assured us she would notify the handyman. Since we didn't want to wait around, we left the apartment and walked into town, thinking that the problem would be resolved shortly.
We first grabbed breakfast, then headed to Etecsa to recharge our SIM cards. Spending over an hour at their office, we struggled to communicate our needs but eventually sorted everything out. Meanwhile, our host messaged us, suggesting that air might be trapped in the system, and recommended opening all faucets and showers at the same time in the whole apartment. Once we got our SIMs topped up, we could finally check out the market at Calle Obispo, a popular pedestrian street in Old Havana. We bought quite a few souvenirs and then were ready for lunch. While exploring our options, several restaurant hosts invited us in, but there was nothing we liked so we kept looking. Eventually, a young man caught our attention who proudly shared that everything served at his restaurant was homemade. He convinced us. We ordered lobster, ropa vieja, and roast pork, each accompanied by a cocktail of our choice. We opted for a refreshing daiquiri to cool off in the heat.
Later in the afternoon, feeling a bit tired from the heat and walking, we agreed to go back home. Given the distance, we took a bicitaxi halfway for my mom and Magdi, allowing them to experience the ride while sparing them from walking too much. Meanwhile, my sister and I continued our journey on foot and caught up with them at the apartment.
When getting home and still finding no water available, we followed the host's instructions by opening everything simultaneously. Unfortunately, this didn't resolve the issue. We reached out to her again, feeling increasingly frustrated as time went by. Having spent the day outdoors in the heat, we were not only unable to shower but also lacked basic amenities like using the toilet or washing our hands. The maintenance technician finally arrived at 4 p.m., five hours after we reported the problem. He checked the water tanks, confirmed that they were both empty and casually told us that there would be no water for the rest of the day. This news made us take action immediately by contacting the owner and urging them to find a rapid resolution, putting our patience to the test.
Our host called us, apologized, and assured us that they would arrange alternative accommodation for us as we couldn't go without water for the remainder of the day. First, she offered us a smaller apartment on Malecón, outside the city, which we weren't satisfied with. We had specifically booked a place with three bedrooms and preferred to stay downtown, so we requested a different option. Then she gave us two alternatives: either to relocate us to a place where we could shower and then return here in the evening, hoping for water the next morning or to move us to a three-bedroom house in the city. We were happy with the second option, believing that this matter would finally be solved. However, our joy didn't last long. Shortly after confirming our decision, the host called us in panic to inform us that the second option wasn't going to work as the house faced similar water supply issues just like the place we were staying at. Although the toilets were functional, there was no water in the showers, so we would have to get water from the main tank with a bucket to shower. While we greatly appreciate traditions and enjoy immersing ourselves in the locals' daily lives, we chose not to go through this procedure, so we politely declined it. At this point, all we wanted was a place with basic amenities, regardless of the number of bedrooms and bathrooms. And to move past the current situation, we told her that we would take the apartment on the Malecón.
We packed our bags and waited for the taxi she assured us to arrange. However, it was an hour after that the car came by to pick us up, causing us some anxiety as it was not how we had planned to spend our evening. As if we haven't been through enough. Meanwhile, we got a reply from the owner who would refund us for two nights and arrange our transportation to the airport. When the taxi finally arrived, we were relieved to leave this accommodation, even though we knew we would have to share both the bedrooms and the bathroom. The car that picked us up was in very poor condition, old and rusty, with a trunk full of junk. We could barely fit our luggage. Nevertheless, our new host was exceptionally friendly and he repeatedly apologized for the inconvenience. Once we arrived at the building, he promptly showed us around the new place, we assigned the rooms and freshened up with a shower.
Our original plan for the evening was to go to El Floridita but we had to postpone it until the next day. Instead, we agreed to have dinner at our favorite restaurant. We took a taxi and got there in about 5 minutes. The band from the previous night was playing again, except for one of them. They greeted us warmly and we even had a chance to chat with them. To celebrate our last night in Cuba, we ordered a round of rum and some cocktails. For dinner, we got seafood and a couple of Cuban sandwiches. Everything was delicious as always. After all the excitement and drama, we felt exhausted so we went home and fell asleep as soon as we hit the pillow.
Day 16 - Havana
On our final day, our main goal was to visit El Floridita and make a last-minute stop at the market. With a late flight scheduled for 9 p.m., we asked our host for pick up at 4 p.m., ensuring we would be back from the city by 3 p.m. at the latest. Since El Floridita didn't open until noon, we first swung by the market to purchase additional gifts. Luckily, we arrived just as it opened, securing seats before the crowd filled the place.
We ordered their world-famous daiquiris, which are considered the specialty of the bar. Ernest Hemingway's favorite spot in Havana, the birthplace of the daiquiri, as indicated by the sign reading ”La cuna del daiquiri”. After taking numerous photos of Hemingway's statue, our drinks were served, and we could finally enjoy them.
Compared to a typical restaurant or bar, this was a slightly more expensive place, which was justified by its reputation. Furthermore, during our trip, we never came across bartenders and servers who worked as quickly as those here. The venue rapidly reached full capacity, leading to overcrowding and discomfort caused by the noise and live music, making it difficult to have a conversation. While I found this bar fascinating, it is mainly focused on tourists, judging by the rapid inflow of visitors. However, for those with a passion for drinks, particularly Cuban cocktails, it is certainly a place worth visiting. We left around 1:00 p.m. and grabbed a taxi to go home.
Having witnessed it happen previously, we requested the car for 4 p.m., yet it ended up arriving an hour later. The same old car wreck that had taken us from the previous accommodation showed up again. This time, at least they cleared out some of the unnecessary items from the trunk to make room for our bags. In about thirty minutes, we arrived at the airport, secured a baggage cart to load our things, and proceeded to check in. Due to several power outages in the terminal, it took us 45 minutes to complete the check-in process.
After passing through passport control, where our tourist cards were collected, we made our way to the security check. We just found out here that Magdi packed some larger seashells in her carry-on bag, which were confiscated. Additionally, a couple of nail clippers from my mom were also taken. But when my backpack was singled out from the line, I started to feel annoyed because I only had souvenirs inside. However, I managed to explain to them that those were just small cups intended as gifts, so they allowed us to continue.
We walked to the gate and took a seat with a sense of relief at having arrived. My sister and I ventured out to purchase coffee, water, and some snacks. Our attempt to buy coffee was unsuccessful at two different places due to one having no electricity and the other lacking water. Moving on, we entered a duty-free shop that accepted various currencies, and we were glad to exchange some Canadian dollars. We bought two large water bottles that cost 15 Canadian dollars, which was quite reasonable. But the cashier took an eternity to process the payment, but eventually managed to do so. While waiting, we noticed another place selling coffee, so we bought one for our mom at a steep price of $2.5, considering its quality. Additionally, we got two Pringles, each priced at $8. The most expensive Pringles I have ever had.
It's important to mention that in the terminal payments in pesos are not accepted after passing the security check; we can only use US dollars, Euros, or Canadian dollars. The prices of items such as water, coffee, beer, and snacks are ridiculously high, just like in any other airport. We tried to find a buffet to grab a sandwich for the journey, but unfortunately, only the standard ham and cheese sandwich was on offer, which didn't interest us at all. There was another restaurant serving food but it didn't seem inviting so instead, we purchased a couple of beers, grabbed some more snacks, and boarding began slowly.
To me, it was extremely disappointing to see, that although we couldn't pay with local currency, a Cuban woman standing nearby at the buffet was able to pay with pesos. While I can understand some reasoning behind this, I believe it is unfair to make such a clear distinction between travelers and locals.
After a nine-hour flight, we got to Madrid, where we were offered to take an earlier flight to Munich. However, we still had plenty of time in Munich airport until the next flight back to Budapest, where we chose to simply relax and hang out. Finally, after a six-hour wait, we boarded our third flight and reached Budapest at midnight. Feeling dead tired, we got picked up and fell straight into bed as soon as we got home.
What to pack:
Most importantly: wet wipes, hand sanitizer, or any liquid alcohol disinfectant are essential.
Choose comfortable, breathable clothing as the heat can be intense, particularly during the lengthy wet season from May to November, with extremely high humidity levels. This climate may be unbearable for those unaccustomed to it. If heading to the beach, remember to pack a swimsuit, towel, hat, snorkeling gear, sunscreen, and water shoes as some beaches have a rocky terrain.
A hat or baseball cap is essential in the Cuban heat, so be sure to pack one in your suitcase.
Sport shoes are advised for hiking, while street shoes and sandals are suitable for strolling around the streets. Although we occasionally wore sandals and slippers, the streets were generally not very clean, making our feet dusty and dirty.
It is advisable to bring extra toiletries, perhaps in larger sizes, especially if we prefer a specific brand, as it may not be available at local stores.
Keep in mind that the UV radiation is extremely strong, so pack a high SPF sunscreen and after-sun lotion.
Don't forget essential medications like painkillers, stomach remedies, and antibiotics, in addition to your daily medicine and vitamins.
It's always a good idea to have extra snacks for the journey. We packed plenty of snacks, and it came in handy during lengthy travels. While local stores offer a variety of snacks, they tend to be repetitive, which is why we made sure to have our supply.
Don't forget to pack your essential electronics like chargers and power banks. We also brought a translator with us, but it ended up not being necessary. Cuban electrical plugs and sockets follow the American model with two legs (A type).
Having an external hard drive can come in handy when our phone storage fills up. We considered bringing a drone as well, but it was prohibited.
Additionally, we opted for a more advanced portable water purifier and carried a couple of water filter bottles to save us from frequent water trips. Typically, we filtered a larger amount of water in the evenings, providing us with enough supply for a while. This arrangement was extremely convenient for our excursions and extended travels. After extensive research on water filters for our trip, I decided to go with the SteriPEN Adventurer Opti UV water purifier. It's lightweight, fits easily in a backpack, and is incredibly user-friendly. At first, I had doubts about this product, but it proved to be very useful on several occasions. It is entirely safe, as we relied on it during our entire trip.
Moreover, it is important to mention that due to the water supply challenges Cuba is facing, not all local establishments offer bottled water for sale, and it might be challenging to find when needed.
Travel tips
Tourist card:
When planning a trip to Cuba, individuals from most countries, including Hungarians, will typically require a tourist card (or in some cases, a visa). In my research on obtaining this card, I found that many travel agencies mistakenly equated it with a visa. The only trustworthy agency I came across was 1000 út, with over 20 years of experience, organizing trips to numerous countries, including Cuba. To obtain the tourist card, I had to submit either our passports or copies of them, along with the travel dates and a fee of HUF 17,500 (approx. $50) per person. By visiting their office, the cards were issued right away, just within a few minutes.
Insurance:
Although it is widely stated that insurance is mandatory for entry into Cuba, we were not requested to provide it anywhere. Nevertheless, we always opt for insurance for all our travels, regardless of the requirements. I consider it wise to have travel insurance, especially when traveling to a destination like Cuba. As always, we agreed to get it from the Hungarian Postal Services, sticking to our usual choice this time as well. The total cost for the 20 days was HUF 28,000 (approx. $75) per person.
Currency and currency exchange:
The official currency in Cuba is the Cuban peso (CUP), although the US dollar and the Euro are widely accepted. Cuban pesos are not available outside the country, and it is essential to be cautious when exchanging money. First of all, the Cuban convertible peso (CUC) is no longer in use, therefore, it is important to distinguish between the CUC and the CUP banknotes to avoid potential fraud. CUP notes feature portraits of Cuban leaders, while CUC bills portray monuments or statues. Secondly, while the lowest exchange rates are typically found at banks or the airport, exchanging money on the streets is not recommended for safety reasons. It is advisable to seek assistance from locals for currency exchange, as they may offer better rates than banks. The majority of our hosts were helpful regarding this matter, and we always got the best deals from them. Furthermore, some travelers, just like us, have been misled into thinking that Canadian dollars are as widely accepted as US dollars. Regrettably, we brought a significant amount of CAD based on the advice of Hungarians previously vacationing in Cuba. However, it seemed questionable to me, which is why we made sure to bring a good amount of US dollars as well,of just in case. As I suspected, Canadian dollars were rarely accepted, and exchanging them was challenging. We did not take any euros with us, but, regardless of its exchange rate, it's valued the same as US dollars.
In most restaurants and bars, besides pesos, payment could be made in Euros, US dollars as well as Cuban pesos, and in some cases, Canadian dollars. However, a few places did not accept pesos. It is highly recommended to ask about the option to pay in local currency, even if prices are displayed in dollars, as various establishments may apply different exchange rates, potentially resulting in double payment if dollars are used. Hence, we used pesos wherever we could, knowing that we would not have as much loss compared to paying with USD. Regrettably, the reality is that while goods are more affordable for locals, there is a tendency to offer overpriced items to tourists, often in dollars.
Credit cards:
Although it is becoming increasingly common to use a credit card for payments in various locations, we used cash everywhere, therefore we don't have any experience with how efficient this payment method is. Truth be told, we didn't feel completely safe paying with credit cards or withdrawing cash from ATMs, instead agreed to carry enough cash for our needs. To play it safe, we doubled our initial estimate of spending $10 per person per day and then multiplied it by the total number of our stay.
We noticed that ATMs are mainly located at banks, and since all banks are government-run, the exchange rate when withdrawing cash from ATMs is probably not the most favorable. Also, given that Cuba is a relatively closed-off country, we anticipated that there may be significant fees for removing money, as the government likely aims to benefit from tourism opportunities. However, we did not use this service, so, again, it is advisable to inquire from those who are familiar with it. Another significant note is that credit and debit cards issued by US banks, can't be used in Cuba.
Safety:
While public safety in Cuba is generally good, it is advisable to remain vigilant and careful at all times. Throughout our journey, we did not come across any dangerous or insecure situations, despite using various modes of transportation and exploring local neighborhoods extensively. Regardless of the perception that Cuba is unsafe, I am confident that by taking necessary precautions, we can steer clear of unfavorable circumstances. It is also wise to avoid exchanging currency on the streets and to carry minimal valuables when out and about. Stay aware of your surroundings, as minor crimes like theft and pick-pocketing could potentially happen.
SIM cards:
Before our trip, I had learned about the option to pre-order a SIM card, but we decided it would be best to handle this in person. With some assistance, we eventually succeeded in purchasing a Cubacel SIM card from a service provider named Etecsa. A passport was required for the transaction, and payment was exclusively accepted online through their website. Also, the phone had to be unlocked to use a Cuban SIM card, a feature that is common in most phones nowadays. The $35 plan came with 6GB of data, 100 local minutes, and 100 local texts. Despite the presence of street vendors selling SIM cards, our host advised us against this practice as they tend to be operational for a short period before being disabled and resold.
Websites:
Despite the availability of various websites in the country, access to many US-owned businesses and platforms like Amazon, Netflix, or Airbnb is restricted, but I learned that these sites could be accessed using a Virtual Private Network (VPN). However, as we didn't use it during our trip, we can't verify its effectiveness. While in Trinidad, we faced a challenging situation where we had to book a different accommodation through Airbnb. This experience confirmed that the site is indeed inaccessible in the country, prompting us to seek alternative solutions.
Accommodation:
Before our trip, my sister and I had agreed to book Airbnb apartments in every city we visited. Our goal was to find a place with at least three rooms with a private bathroom for each. The majority of the options we came across were either entire apartments or a section of one, often known as a "casa particular" in Cuba. A casa particular is a home that rents out at least one room to visitors. Typically, the family lives in these rented spaces and assists guests with various needs, from meals to sightseeing. These options are more affordable than state-owned hotels and provide a more personal experience, offering insight into everyday Cuban life. By selecting this type of accommodation, we also contribute to the local economy. The money we spend at these homes remains with the families, who then reinvest in their community, thereby supporting the sustainability of Cuban tourism.
The majority of these apartments offer either limited internet access or none at all. Although some listings indicate WiFi availability during booking, it is not consistently accessible. Usually, the host manages the connectivity using their mobile device, which depends on their presence at the property. Thus, in our experience, it is better not to rely on continuous WiFi access, and instead, consider purchasing a local SIM card.
At first, we were somewhat concerned about these accommodations, but each of our hosts turned out to be extremely helpful. They provided us with a ton of information about the city, and the attractions, organized transportation and tours, and assisted us with money exchange. For instance, In Santiago de Cuba, Noemi and her son Andy lived in the ground-floor apartment, while we stayed upstairs. Noemi took care of all the necessary arrangements, ensuring that our stay was trouble-free. But several times we just simply sat with them on the terrace, enjoying coffee while having a conversation.
The only negative was that the majority of private accommodation owners speak only Spanish. Although we encountered difficulties in the beginning, we eventually adapted to the situation and managed to successfully establish communication with them.
Suitcase vs. backpack:
When comparing a suitcase with a backpack, my sister and I have found, from past experiences, that opting for a backpack is more advantageous. On the other hand, my Mom and Magdi had an easier decision to make as they couldn't manage to carry heavy weights, they voted for the luggage. While navigating the streets with suitcases poses no issues, the two backpacks proved to be highly beneficial when it came to fitting them into trunks. It's doubtful that we could have managed this with four suitcases.
Eating out:
In Cuba, there are no fast food restaurants, and street food is not common either. Therefore, the only choice for a quick meal, or at least a faster one compared to dining out, is to buy pizzas and sandwiches from local vendors. Typically topped with ham and cheese, these can be unexpectedly tasty. The shortage of imported ingredients explains the limited menu options. With just flour, bread, cheese, ham, and sausage needed to prepare them, they are the simplest and quickest to make. From the first time we found these small eateries, we were getting our breakfast from them regularly. Also, whenever we were short on time or not in the mood to wait at a restaurant, this was always our preferred solution.
We often found locals selling fruits along the streets, with mangoes and avocados being our favorites. They were consistently fresh, delicious, and very affordable.
It is important to keep in mind that not all local vendors or small shops offer water for sale. Ensure you always carry some water with you, as you may not need it immediately but could require it later when it might not be easily accessible.
If you choose to stay in a casa particular or a regular apartment, you should not expect to easily find supermarkets or grocery stores where you can purchase breakfast items like bread, butter, or cold cuts. While there are government-run stores called Cadena de Tiendas that sell toiletries, canned food, pasta, rice, snacks, and drinks, they do not offer a wide variety of food products. Local shops may have basic food items like cooking oil, flour, and cheese, and also soft drinks and beer. However, these stores often lack stock, and we may need to wait in line to enter.
Occasionally, we would only shop in these stores for items like water, soda, or beer. It's interesting to note that, despite common belief, Coca-Cola and Pepsi are now sold in Cuba, albeit at a much higher price compared to the local cola. This applies to all imported products. What caught my attention at first was that we only found imported beers, whether at restaurants, bars, or sold by street vendors: Dutch, Spanish, Belgian. We didn't see any local beer until we were in Trinidad where we tried Cristal, the most popular beer among Cubans.
Infrastructure:
This part especially is relevant for those who have reserved private apartments for their accommodation. Regrettably, the infrastructure presents challenges across the country. The electricity supply is inconsistent, water is stored in tanks, resulting in situations where our apartment either lost power or faced water shortages. Being without water had some unpleasant impacts, especially after a long day, while the power outage left us without air conditioning, which is far from ideal in such a hot climate. These are unfortunate circumstances we must anticipate.
Renting a car:
When considering renting a car, it is recommended to make an online reservation in advance due to the reported shortage of rental cars in the country, making local rentals quite challenging. It is important to note that in Cuba, only state-owned gas stations, known as "Oro Negro" and "Cupet," are available. Most of these filling stations do not operate 24/7, and not all of them offer fuel for all types of vehicles. Therefore, it is essential to confirm with the car rental agency which type of fuel can be used at the different filling stations. Before our visit, we had heard about the fuel crisis in Cuba, leading to excessively long queues at gas stations. Although this situation appeared to be improving, we witnessed quite a few lines at fueling stations during our travels.
The daily rental cost of a car varied from $100 to $250, depending on the type of vehicle, which we found sort of expensive. This fact, along with many other factors, reinforced our choice to refrain from renting a car.
If you opt not to rent a car for traveling around the island, arranging private transportation with the assistance of local hosts is a viable option. While this method may be less convenient and more expensive than taking the bus, it offers more speed and flexibility. Despite costing more, we chose private taxis instead of buses, as the bus routes involved multiple transfers. Keep in mind, that it is a common practice to store a gas can in the trunk of every car, so drivers can refill them whenever possible. Consequently, upon returning home, our bags and suitcases were filled with the smell of diesel both inside and out.
The highways in Cuba are quite different from what you would typically encounter in your own country. The speed limit is commonly 100 km/h, and there are numerous obstacles on the roads. Moreover, the conditions are rather unfavorable, characterized by bumps and potholes, which makes navigation quite difficult. To be honest, we were relieved we didn't have to maneuver through these roads with a rented car. I believe these are significant factors to consider when discussing the option of renting a car.
Excursions:
We had a rough plan in place for what we wanted to do, but we didn't anticipate the intense heat, which, truth be told, significantly slowed us down. This aspect must be considered when planning future tours. Initially, we had hoped to visit a multitude of cities, but, having learned from our previous journey, and the poor road conditions and slow travel between destinations made us reconsider. We didn't want to rush through our trip, spending half of it on the road and only a night in each place. As a result, we agreed to limit the number of cities visited and to extend our stay in certain locations to allow for thorough exploration and meaningful experiences. This turned out to be a wise choice. Through this journey, we often debated whether to participate in different excursions. In Trinidad, we had to cancel our visit to Topes de Collantes National Park because of unfavorable weather conditions. Despite this setback, we opted to enjoy a salsa dance instead. In Santiago, we changed our plan of going to the beach and chose to relax and slowly discover the city, a decision that turned out to be satisfying.
Our approach to activities was deliberate and relaxed, a strategy that left us content. For anyone traveling to Santiago, I recommend visiting the Moncada barracks and exploring the museums (the latter suggestion also applies to Trinidad). These are two activities that we missed out on.
Interestingly, we hadn't booked any excursions before our trip. However, everything fell into place smoothly as we were able to arrange all our planned trips, mostly with the assistance of our hosts.
Climate:
The heat in Cuba should not be underestimated. Despite having visited numerous Caribbean islands in the past and having a general idea of what to expect, the intensity of the heat in Cuba caught us off guard. We had to make significant changes to our plans due to the extreme temperatures, as we had hoped to explore more places but found ourselves drained by the heat. The humid conditions were particularly tough, with the air being completely still without any breeze. We needed to take more breaks than usual as well as afternoon siestas during the hottest part of the day. Even locals tended to seek shelter from the heat in such circumstances. It was crucial to have water on hand at all times to stay hydrated, and wearing a hat was a must when venturing out.
During our time in Viñales, we had an unforgettable horseback riding experience, and I highly recommend this activity to anyone exploring the valley. It is essential to wear long or three-quarter pants and closed shoes when embarking on this adventure. The valley often gets muddy due to frequent rainfall, especially in the rainy season.
When planning a trip to Cuba, it is crucial to remember that the hurricane season usually runs from June to November, resulting in significant rainfall, floods, and landslides. We visited the country towards the end of July, returning in August, and apart from a few intense rain showers, we didn't encounter any major issues. Nevertheless, it is recommended to verify the weather forecast for potential tropical storm alerts before traveling.
Laundry:
We packed lightly, washing our necessary clothes by hand while on the go. One of the apartments was equipped with a washing machine, allowing us to handle all our laundry needs. In contrast to Mexico, we did not come across any laundry services here, but we dealt with this issue regardless. While we didn't consider this aspect to be crucial, individuals seeking an apartment with a washing machine can specify this preference when looking for accommodation.
Pros and cons
Pros:
In Cuba, haste is a foreign concept. While back home we are used to the fast pace of everyday life and become restless waiting for a coffee or a sandwich, the locals in Cuba move at their speed without any rush. I found myself admiring this characteristic in them. Initially, during our trip, we struggled to adjust to their relaxed approach, finding it hard to comprehend why it took so long to serve a piña colada or an appetizer (a puzzle that still remains). This slow-paced attitude was not limited to hospitality but also extended to various aspects of our journey, such as arranging transportation or an excursion. However, I believe that this relaxed speed is not meant to cause us any inconvenience; it is simply a part of their way of life. As we encountered this delay repeatedly, we became more familiar with it, learning to anticipate that a meal would take longer than expected. By adopting this laid-back attitude, we found that things fell into place surprisingly well, reflecting the ease with which the locals carry out their daily lives.
Despite the poverty in Cuba, people seem very happy. At first, we were shocked by the living conditions of most Cubans. We felt sympathy for them, realizing that we were fortunate to be able to travel to their country while they worked hard just to put food on the table. However, over time, we observed that these individuals do not complain. Instead, they greet us with smiles as they sell fruits or pizzas for a modest income. They engage in cheerful activities like playing dominoes or making music on the streets, not necessarily for a tip, but to showcase and sell their work. Most children we have seen, don't play with tablets and smartphones. Instead, they interact with each other and enjoy playing outdoors using basic items such as balls or cardboard boxes. One unforgettable moment that stuck with me was when we were strolling through a street in Havana and a young girl kindly offered me some of her sweets, despite having very little herself.
As previously mentioned, we could constantly rely on the kindness of others, especially our hosts, for any assistance we required. They would regularly assist us outside as well, whether it was out of self-interest or not, whenever we were looking for a place or a street, or found ourselves lost. Wherever we traveled, we always encountered friendly individuals who offered guidance and shared their stories with us.
Cuba is stunning. Each city we visited has its unique charm that can't be compared. The only similarity we found was in the streets, bustling with people chatting, observing, and children enjoying themselves. We loved to see the vibrant and lively neighborhoods, always buzzing with activities. When discussing Cuba, most individuals tend to focus on Havana and Varadero, overlooking the numerous other destinations worth exploring, including lush forests, beautiful white-sand beaches, and picturesque countryside.
Havana was my favorite city of all. I enjoyed walking down its narrow streets, admiring the large, colorful, somewhat rundown buildings decorated with baroque balconies. I found myself fascinated by these structures, which preserved the charm of Spanish colonial architecture. For me, these small details make up the true spirit of Cuban life: the colorful architecture, the constant bustling, and the scorching heat.
Cons:
One thing that I am constantly mindful of is hygiene, especially when it seems to be lacking. Not to worry, we were well-prepared with a large stock of hand sanitizers and wet wipes.
Getting used to the huge amounts of trash piling up on the streets took a considerable amount of time, let alone the unpleasant smell all around. Regrettably, the community didn't seem bothered by the widespread trash, despite the bad odor and the potential health risks posed to the neighborhood. As the streets were quite dirty, we had to be careful where we stepped especially when wearing open-toe sandals.
Regardless of the time of day, the streets were constantly crowded, giving the impression that people had nowhere else to be. Later, as we spoke with locals, it became clear that a significant number of individuals decided not to work because of the low wages in the country, which typically range from $20 to $25 per month. Instead, they prefer to stay at home and engage in different businesses or sell products to earn money. The situation is truly distressing.
As we strolled the streets, we were frequently approached and interrupted with questions that grew increasingly annoying. Everyone seemed curious about where we came from or where we were going, offering taxi services or suggesting currency exchange. It was exhausting just to listen to these requests and questions, not to mention the persistent attempts to ask for money or food. No matter where we went, people would approach us, stare at us, and whistle, all of which we learned to ignore completely.
One major downside for me is the way tourists are being taken advantage of, a situation that I believe most people have experienced. While it is somewhat understandable as they rely on tourists for their livelihood, there should be a limit to how they view us solely as sources of money. We encountered two particular incidents: one where the total bill was converted into dollars, despite prices being displayed in pesos, and the other, as previously mentioned, was the unpleasant airport encounter.
The water and sewage infrastructure in Cuba is becoming obsolete, as the original systems on the island were installed by the Spanish during their colonial rule of Cuba. Since it is so outdated, a large amount of freshwater is lost daily due to leaking in the old pipes. This made our stay somewhat unpleasant on several occasions, with a particularly awful experience that ultimately led to us leaving our last apartment.
Ann3,this was a very informative and exciting experience of your journey to Cuba.
Thank you very much for sharing this.
You're friend, Bill Kelley (Hungarian)
Szuper jó nyaralás volt !